It's not even really fair to call this restoration, since the car was in
such nice shape when I got it.
Things left to do
- Fix the heat
- I finally crawled underneath the car and
found that the heater cables just didn't attach to the hinges;
they just ended in mid-air; this explains why the heat never worked.
- I got the new cable and little attachment thingies from
Economy Imports, installed
it and then discovered that my initial inspection wasn't complete
enough; I also need the hose from the heat exchanger to the body
tunnel and the gasket that goes on the end of the tube housing the
heater control cable.
- I went back to Economy Imports and asked for the hose that
goes from the heat exchanger to the body, and got something that
looked a little funny but hey, they were knowledgable about the
other stuff so I figured I'd just take it. Went home, tried
to install it, it was small enough to fit inside the
heat exchanger... returned it and was told that they were
no longer stocked anywhere... another thing for the junkyard!
- Went to the junk yard, got the heater duct, and the little
plastic vent things that go in the front footwells. The heater
duct was missing the metal liner that makes it fit well on the
pipes so I had to tighten down the clamps and I'm a little
worried about how the rubber will like the heat (I don't really
want it to melt!)
- Got the little round black knobbies to put on the end of
the heat control levers from West Coast Metric, now I'm not so worried
about people poking their eyes out on the heater controls any more.
- I also got the gasket that goes on the end of the tube housing
the heater control cable from West Coast Metric, so I installed it
and re-adjusted the throw of the heater cables to the full range
(I had originally adjusted them so that the heat was always on low)
- Still need to fix the outlets under the rear seat; they don't
close all the way.
- Fresh Air
- Need to figure out the fresh air system. I think that the
controls got disconnected when the car got repainted!
- After taking the glove box out, it appears that there is nowhere
to attach the control wire to -- perhaps the vent got replaced by
a straight hose! Looks like more junk-yard for this one.
- Interior
- Need new carpet, at least the driver's and passenger foot
pieces...
- Clock / Fuel Gauge
- The clock doesn't work. It's always 4:05 in my car.
It has +12, so it's an internal problem.
- Sometimes when the lights are on, the fuel gague reads
higher. It was a pain to discover
this the first time.
- At one point, the backlights failed, the high beam light
inverted state (!) but jerking the car around a little in
1st gear made it go back to normal.
- I wiggled the ground around a little which solved the problem
for a little while.
- I am looking around for a whole new instrument cluster.
- Tried one junk yard, every Ghia clock they had was bad.
Looks like these things have a ~20 year lifetime, =( ...
- Electrical System
- The fuses are not quite wired exactly as the Bentley Book
says. They are in the same group, but not necessarily the same
numbers. I plan to rewire them to be the same numbers, to
lessen potential confusion.
- There are several unclean splices, which I have yet to clean up.
- Fixed the major one: the main power supply from battery to
fuse box. Turns out the PO just twisted the wires together and
black-taped them up. I soldered them and used 3 layers of heat-shrink
tubing to insulate them.
- There are a couple of wires just hanging in mid air; some of
them just go to the computer hookup but some of them probably don't.
- The brake warning light on the dash lights up dimly
when the headlights are on, blinks with the turn signal and
glows with the brakes -- but only when the headlights are on.
- Charging System
- I came out to the car one day and the battery was completely dead.
No click, no lights, no radio. I got a jump and it started right
up, drove to the parts store, it started fine out of the parts store,
went to Sears and they told me the battery was toast.
- When Sears installed the new battery, they also tested the
charging system and told me that it was bad. So it's time to check
the generator and regulator.
- I tried the test in the Haynes manual, it was relatively
inconclusive but the voltage across the battery never went much
over 13.5; the Haynes manual says 13.5-14.5 is normal. What's
more interesting is that I let the car idle, the voltage dropped
to 13.1, I turned the car off, the voltage stayed at 13.1 ...
- I tried the no-load test in the Bentley manual, and there
was at least voltage coming out of the regulator, and it did cut
off below around 770 RPM.
- I plan to replace the regulator and see if that helps - the
Haynes manual says to do this first since you have to replace the
regulator when you replace the generator anyway...
- Weather Stripping
- The weatherstripping is all cracked and dry and has holes;
I need to replace almost all of it.
- In particular, I ripped the weather stripping off the
driver's side door when trying to make it close properly,
so I definitely need to put that back on. I tried once but
had a bad time with the weather stripping glue.
- Glove Box
- The glove box disintegrated one day when I tried to open
the hood.
- I bought a new plastic glove box from West Coast Metric,
but it has none of the holes required to mount the hood-opening
lever.
- I still have to drill out the rivets from the old mounting
and figure out how to disconnect / reconnect the cable without
locking the hood forever by accident =)
- I have taken the old glove box out.
- I re-attached the glove box door to the body (there was only
actually 1 out of the 4 original screws).
- Replace Hoses
- I already replaced several cracked/loose hoses, but there
are more. I'm a little worried by the damp cloth surrounding
the fuel line, so that's my next replacement.
- While under the front hood, I noticed a potentially leaky
fuel-fume-recovery hose, so that one is definitely pretty high
priority! I don't want no stinkin' gas-tank fire!
- Windows
- Both driver's and passenger's windows squeak and tend to catch
when you raise and lower them. I looked at the driver's side
mechanism and it looks like it's totally junked up with old grease,
so the solution is probably to take the window mechanism completely
out and clean it and grease it properly. Since I don't want to
do without windows for any length of time (at least not during
the winter) this one will have to wait until I'm biking again.
- Rear Defroster
- The relay for the rear defroster is hanging in space,
instead of attached to the fan housing. Someone shortened
some of the wires, so it won't make it all the way to the
bracket any more.
- The ground for the relay was missing. After looking
unsuccessfully in the engine compartment for a convenient
place to get a ground, I finally ended up running a wire to
the left rear light assembly, since there was an unused
ground terminal post there!
- After putting a new fuse in the fuse holder, there was
current to the defroster; it still doesn't work very well
but now I suspect it's a problem with the wires on the window.
- Misc
- The washer motor has all sorts of gunk on it. No clue
what it is but it points towards the need for a full under-dash
cleaning spree.
- Engine Compartment Lights
- Peg's Jeepy has an awesome light under the hood that lights up
the whole engine compartment when you lift it up. Unbelievably
useful at night.
- Bob Hoover wrote about
how he did it
in his VW's.
Things already done
- Dome light
- The spring in one of the contacts in the mirror assembly
is no longer springy, so it wouldn't make contact.
I just dumped a bunch of solder on the
contact on the light so that it was high enough to touch the
contact. This is a relatively high-maintenance solution,
since the solder is soft enough to get molded out of shape and
I expect to have to re-do it soon.
- There was no light in the holder when I bought the car, and
the local auto parts store didn't have the exact bulb with the
pointy ends. I bought one with flat ends and bits of wire on the
ends and bent the wire a bit and force-fit it. I think it was
for a Chevy or something, but at least I have light now.
- The driver's side switch was broken, so the light wouldn't
come on even after the above two steps. I finally found a bug
switch, but it's a single-pole switch with one big terminal post
instead of the Ghia double-pole switch with 4 tiny terminal posts.
However, since the other pole of the Ghia switch is for the door
buzzer and I don't particularly want a door buzzer, I figured I'd
just go for it.
- Emergency Brake
- While parking in San Fransisco, I was being too paranoid
about making sure the brake was on, so I pulled it up really
hard. The center pushbutton went "sproing" and shot out of
the middle of the brake. I had pulled it off of the ratchet
and the pushbutton and piece attached to it relied on being
on the ratchet. I dealt with not having a ratchet for a while
(I could still manually push the little metal piece into place
to hold the brake) and then finally re-installed the pushbutton
by pulling the brake up as high as when I broke it and wiggling
all pieces until they went together...
- Sun Visor
- I walked out of work one day and saw the Driver's side sun
visor just hanging down, not attached next to the mirror.
It turns out the little plastic piece to hold it in place had
disintegrated.
- I tried super-gluing the pieces back together, but after
it fell apart twice more I gave up on that, and tied the visor
to the screw with string.
- I finally found West Coast Metric, which actually had
the right part for a reasonable price and ordered one... 2
days later, I was in sun visor heaven!
- Driver's side door
- The driver's side door didn't close all the way; you could
unlock the car by just bouncing against the door since it would
wiggle the locking mechanism.
- I removed the weather stripping in the incorrect notion that
it was causing the problem.
- I then realized that the strike plate could be moved and bought
a big ol' phillips screwdriver and moved it, and now the door closes
properly.
- Windshield Washer
- There are several leaks in the system, including one in the
steering-column switch and one before the pressure-sensitive
valve that can nearly empty the spare tire.
- I bought a pump ($14 at Kragen) and mounted it on top of
the horn attachment. I mounted a button under the dash in front
of the fuse box (invisible from a seated position) and now I have
power washers!
- Brakes
- Someone looked like they were going to pull out in front of me
on my way to work on 2/8/96. I slammed on the brakes and the pedal
went to the floor (but I stopped!)
- I discovered that the brake line through the passenger compartment
had burst only after buying a rebuilt master cylinder. Luckily,
Kragen took it back. I replaced the brake line but nobody had time
to help me bleed it... then when I did get a hand we couldn't bleed
it.
- Took it to a garage and they bled it for $30.00 -- too much,
but at least I have brakes again!
- Engine Trouble
- It doesn't like to idle sometimes. Carb adjustment doesn't
seem to do anything predictable.
- Sometimes after it is having this trouble the fuel filter
has no gas in it, so I bought a new fuel pump but haven't installed
it yet.
- Installed the fuel pump. While trying to remove the old plastic
spacer, it broke and left half of it in the engine. After trying
many many things to get the half out of the engine, I finally bought
a tap set and tapped threads into the plastic piece. Pulled right
out. The new fuel pump didn't help significantly.
- Rebuild the carb. This helped a lot, the stalling is cured but
the carb adjustment is still a little iffy, I think there's something
wrong with the volume screw.
Summary of "Things Yet To Obtain"
- From a junk yard
- Clock / Fuel Gague instrument cluster
- From a parts store or catalog
- New carpet (or parts thereof)
- Voltage Regulator
- Weather stripping
- More hoses
- Lights, switch and fuse for under-hood lights
- Dash cover (between instruments and luggage compartment)